“Where the road ends and the adventure begins.” This comment is on a sign at the edge of town and provides only a hint of what to expect when you come to Port Hardy BC Canada. Port Hardy BC is a small town with a population of about 4000 residents at the end of Highway 19 on the north end of Vancouver Island. This is a particularly special community because it is the gateway for many different adventures and activities such as; The North Coast Trail in Cape Scott Provincial Park, some of the best salmon and halibut fishing in the world, your BC Ferries starting point for your adventure to Prince Rupert via the scenic Inside Passage, some of the best scuba diving on the planet according to the internationally acclaimed Jacque Cousteau, rich North “native” American – first nations aboriginal culture and much, much more.
This You Tube video shows some of the highlights around Port Hardy including photos and video of BC Ferries Northern Expedition, horseback riding, light houses, The North Coast Trail, native dancing, fishing, surfing, kayaking, various outdoor activities, a bear, an eagle and stunning aerial shots of the Port Hardy area.
History of Port Hardy
Port Hardy was named after Vice Admiral Sir Thomas Masterman Hardy who had a notable role in the war of 1812 and the Napoleonic Wars, but was more famously known for the last moments he spent at the battle of Trafalgar with Lord Nelson (arguably the most famous British military figure in history). He and Nelson pacing the ship deck during the battle, a cannon ball hits the deck between them, surprising them both and to the fact that neither was hurt. It was soon there after a bullet mortally wounds Lord Nelson. As he lay dying in Hardy's arms... Lord Nelson looks him in the eye and says, "Kiss me, Hardy". Though conflicting reports indicate that these may not have been Lord Nelson's famous very last words, history might loose a shade of colourfulness if they were not.
One of the oldest archaeological sites on Vancouver Island is found in Port Hardy, humans have inhabited the area for well over 8000 years, their descendants are still there today. The first European settlement was a Hudson's Bay Company fortified trading post called Fort Rupert. Other Europeans started to settle the area in the early 1900's with mostly false promises of a better life, many left, but the ones who stayed worked hard and developed the community into what it is today.
Due to the vast natural resources in the area it kept many people employed in fish canneries, sawmills and mines (one of the biggest copper mines in Canada at the time). As demand for these resources diminishes Port hardy takes on a stronger role in the tourism industry, and with its unique geographical location, it makes the perfect launching pad for fun, adventure and unique experiences. If you want to know more about Port Hardy and its history, don't hesitate to visit the Port Hardy Museum at 7110 Market Street.
Cape Scott Provincial Park
The jewel at the northernmost tip of Vancouver Island is Cape Scott Provincial Park. It was named after a wealthy Bombay merchant David Scott who financed the expedition to that area in 1786. The park now encompasses more than 20,000 hectares of land and has over 30 km of beaches. The most popular beach is Nel's Bight that has a 2.5 km long beach , this is a popular destination for park goers. Mt. St. Patrick is another great hike and is the tallest mountain in the park measuring up to a mere 422 meters and sports a great view. Another popular point of interest is a cedar tree with a 7 metre circumference just 20 minutes north of the Eric Lake campsite.
Cougars, wolves and bears oh my! Yes, you are in wild animal country and they need their space and your respect. Make sure you obey wildlife encounter rules at park information booths and keep your dogs on leash at all times (better to leave Fido at home altogether).
Other good park going tips is to make sure no valuables are left in your vehicle, carry at least 2 days worth of water with you, be prepared for bad weather and stay on the trails.
The North Coast Trail
This is an exciting new addition to Cape Scott Provincial park and now rivals the Jaun De Fuca Marine Trail and The West Coast Trial and is drawing earnest hikers from all over the world. The North Coast Trail that runs from Shushartie Bay to Nissen Bight and is an extension of The Cape Scott Trail that will take you through about 60 km of estuaries, old growth forest, majestic beaches and many wildlife viewing opportunities. There are a couple of cable cars on the trail and do not bring your dog, there are areas that are rope assisted climbing, so unless you feel like carrying Fido, best to leave him at home. The trail can take 6-7 days to traverse and is intended for moderate to expert hikers, The North Coast Trail is considered to be more difficult than The West Coast Trail.
Port Hardy is strategically positioned where many different species of salmon migrate by each year. This makes for a long salmon fishing season from June to October and depending when you are there you can take advantage of the specific species that is migrating at the time. Chinook, Coho, Pink, Sockeye, Chum and others known by their colloquial names swim by Port Hardy on their way to their spawning grounds.
There is also a great bottom fishing opportunities as well and the season can run a little longer than the Salmon season. Halibut, Cod and Snapper can be caught here too. To get detailed information on fishing seasons here is a Port Hardy Fishing Guide.
There are several Port Hardy fishing charter and outfitters available for hire. Excursions can range from a few hours to several days and can cost from $500 to several thousand for fishing and accommodation packages. Here is a list of Port Hardy Fishing Charters.
Ferry from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert
This is the biggest tourist draw for Port Hardy BC, especially during the summer months when BC Ferries has their summer sailings through the Discovery Coast Passage. In fact this guide is sculpted especially for this excursion. Click here to read the full guide to the Inside Passage and Haida Gwaii.
The Northern Expedition is one of BC Ferries newest and state of the art ships, it travels up the inside passage along the same route as the Alaska cruise ships. This is one of the most majestic cruises you will ever take and is no surprise that this attraction draws people from all over the world.
The cruise takes about 16 hours from its departure in Port Hardy to its arrival in Prince Rupert. During the trip you will see the vast “Great Bear Rain Forest”, majestic mountains, whale sightings are very common, perhaps a glimpse of the Kermode (white) bear on Royal Princess Island, small remote communities, picturesque light houses and abandoned ghost towns. The ship has many amenities such as state rooms, dining lounge, cafe and gift shop. Another difference between the Northern Expedition and an Alaskan cruise is that you can take your car with you and continue you journey in Prince Rupert. BC Ferries web site.
Many people continuing their vacation via their vehicle find this a highlight of their trip, they get to take a mini inside passage cruise and get to continue on with their trip when they reach the other end. Another popular option is to drive to Port Hardy in your car, leave the car at the hotel you are staying at and just walk on the Northern Expedition, spend a few days in Prince Rupert then come back by walking on the same ferry. Not all hotels may not provide long term parking, its a good idea to check ahead of time, the other option is to leave your car at the Sunny Sanctuary Campground for a nominal fee. To get to the ferry terminal there is a shuttle that will pick you up from where you are staying and take you directly to the ferry terminal for another nominal fee, you can make these arrangements with your lodging staff or call them directly at (250) 949-6300.
Port Hardy Scuba Diving
Port Hardy Scuba diving has been rated the best cold water diving site in the world and gives warm water diving sites a run for their money. Most of the scuba diving is rated moderate to expert and you should always go with a local diving charter. There are many numerous dive sites around Port Hardy, too many to mention here, but we will talk a bit about the one that Jacque Cousteau put on the world diving map.
Browning Wall near God's Pocket Provincial Park is rated one of the best dive sites in the world. Every nook and cranny of this wall is covered with a wide variety of marine life. Star fish, sponges, large barnacles, soft corals, anemones, scallops, crabs, octopus and so much more. The multicoloured wall is a veritable feast for the eyes and unprecedented any where else in the world. This a moderate to expert dive and you should procure the services of a local Port Hardy scuba diving charter.
This You Tube video shows a dive down the Browning Wall. Half way through the video the scuba diver gives his camera an adjustment and then you really get to see the colours come alive.
First Nations Culture
Native shops and art galleries line Market St., you are welcome to explore their unique creations and maybe get a glimpse of the Port Hardy artists in action. There are cultural tours available, enquire at the Tourist Information Centre and also Catala Charters offers a native cultural tour on their web site.
Port Hardy Points Of Interest
Quatse River Trail
Port Hardy's premier hiking trail takes you along the scenic waterfront all the way to the Quatse Estuary where you will have many opportunities to view wildlife. The walk can take you about 45 minutes and starts at Port Hardy's Seaplane base, pass by a hatchery (that is worth an exploration in and of itself) and end up in the rain forest.
Port Hardy Pool
Would you like to take a dip? The Port Hardy Recreation Centre has a sauna, whirlpool and a full sized pool. For location, schedule and fee information click here.
Kayaking
Port Hardy is a great place to kayak with lots of beaches, coves and estuaries to explore. If you are lucky you could even kayak with some killer whales. www.odysseykayaking.com is a great place to get outfitted and advice for a great adventure.
Sunny Sanctuary
The Sunny Sanctuary Campground just outside of Port Hardy is a home for many bunny rabbits and, not so alive, stuffed animals. It makes for an interesting roadside curio and the public is always welcome. Watch for the sign just outside of Port Hardy on Highway 19.
Caving
Attention spelunkers! A caving opportunity awaits you in Port Hardy, Little Huson Cave Park is an easy exploration for the beginner. The Quatsino System is one of the largest caving systems on Vancouver Island and has spelunking opportunities for beginners to experts. Little Huson Cave Park is a half an hour drive off of Highway 19 at the Zeballos turnoff.
Fort Rupert
Well, the only thing left standing at Fort Rupert is the chimney, but the Fort Rupert Band has built a long house in the area and there are many totem pole viewing opportunities as well. Heading toward Port Hardy on Highway 19 turn right on Byng Rd., left on Beaver Harbour Rd., right on Tsakis Way and you'll be there in just under a kilometre.
Storey's Beach
Bring the family down for a picnic at Port Hardy's picturesque sandy beach. This is the place to come and relax, watch the waves, go for a dip on a hot summers day and let the kids have some great unstructured playtime. Heading toward Port Hardy on Highway 19 turn right on Byng Rd., left on Beaver Harbour Rd. and follow it to the end.
Port Hardy Directions
The best way, and how, to get to Port Hardy is to drive there. The distance from Victoria to Port Hardy is 500 km and takes about 6 hours to drive. Distance from Nanaimo is 390 km and takes about 4 hours to drive. From Victoria BC drive north on Highway 1 and take the overpass just before Nanaimo city centre to Highway 19 and follow it to the very end. From Nanaimo just drive north on Highway 19. If you are coming from locations off Vancouver Island, and want to bring your car, you will need to take one of the ferries.
Coming from Prince Rupert you can take the BC Ferries Northern Expedition down the Inside Passage, for a car and driver this can cost $500.00. The BC Ferries from Horseshoe Bay (North Vancouver) to Nanaimo and Tsawwassen (Vancouver) to Swartz Bay (Victoria) will cost around $60.00 for a car and driver. Washington State Ferries from Anacortez (Seattle) to Sidney (Victoria) will cost around $75.00 for a car and driver. Black Ball Ferry Line via the Coho Ferry from Port Angeles to Victoria will cost $55.00 for car and driver.
Take the bus. The Greyhound bus from Victoria to Port Hardy can take about 10 hours and cost about $80.00.
There are daily flights into the Port Hardy Airport via Pacific Coastal Airlines. Also, there is a National car rental agency located there too.
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